'I got a taste of royal life while staying at a luxurious hotel in Turkey'

Sprawling Istanbulhas always been a place where East meets West, and the Four Seasons at Sultanahmet perfectly encapsulates the spirit of the city.

It’s hard to believe this pretty Ottoman building was once a jail, but it has been beautifully ­refurbished as a place to escape to, rather than escape from.

Set amid the winding, cobbled network of roads that make up Sultanahmet, the oldest area of Istanbul, the hotel has a polished, serene feeling that becomes apparent as soon as you are warmly greeted at the door.

After a day of exploring in the intense heat of the Turkishsun, the cool, marble interior felt particularly welcoming.

While keeping many of its original features, the Four Seasons has been ­sympathetically restored to give it a clean, modern feel while still maintaining its character.

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The rooms are set around a charming courtyard area, housing the hotel’s AVLU restaurant, with beautifully kept gardens full of fragrant flowers and herbs.

It also has a location that can’t be beaten when on a short city break. Some of Istanbul’s most iconic landmarks are on its doorstep, while others are a short tram ride away. You aren’t just close to the city’s history, you feel like you’re living inside it.

From its pretty yellow facade with Ottoman features to the sleek, neutral interiors, it perfectly balances the historic and modern. Rooms and suites are tastefully decorated in neutral colours and have been carefully thought out to give guests a truly five-star experience.

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There are plush beds with crisp white linens, features such as deep soaking tubs, and lovely little treats such as fresh baklava and Turkish delight.

Some rooms have views of the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque, while our comfortable suite looked over the Sultanahmet rooftops, with the Bosphorus and green hills in the distance.

On the rooftop terrace, you can enjoy panoramic views of the neighbourhood and beyond as you sip cocktails and watch the sun go down – the perfect spot to get some impressive holiday snaps.

On site there’s also a fitness centre and small but luxurious spa. You can also hop on a land or water shuttle across to sister property, the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul At The Bosphorus, where you’re welcome to use the indoor or outdoor pools, hammam and restaurants.

For foodies, there's the Avlu restaurant, which is set in a glass rotunda in the centre of the hotel’s courtyard. Sit indoors or dine alfresco in the lush green gardens, surrounded by colourful flowers and soft lighting.

The restaurant offers an impressive breakfast spread, which includes a buffet of fresh, flaky pastries, fruit, olives, cheese and more.

We tucked into sucuklu yumurta, a fried egg dish with spicy Turkish sausage, and a freshly made omelette.

The waiters at Avlu were enthusiastic about the local dishes, with ingredients sourced as closely to the hotel as possible, and patiently helped us choose a bottle of Anatolian wine to accompany our meal. At one point, we even spotted one of the chefs in the garden picking fresh herbs for the evening’s menu.

Heading down in the evening, we enjoyed starters including summer zucchini, which was fresh and flavourful, as well as a charred aubergine and tomato salad.

The beef short ribs melted in the mouth and were served alongside a rich and creamy mash potato, while the lamb loin was cooked to perfection and served with freekeh and a delicately spiced yogurt.

Step out of the hotel and you’re in the heart of the oldest part of Istanbul, close enough to hear the calls to prayer from the Blue Mosque.

It’s worth taking a guided tour to truly appreciate the Ottoman-era architecture, with its distinctive blue roof and stained glass.

Just across the street is the Hagia Sophia, a former Christian church that’s one of the world’s most spectacular examples of Byzantine architecture. Now a mosque, many of its relics remain, such as elaborate Christian mosaics.

Head underground to the Basilica Cistern, a truly amazing feat of engineering that has managed to survive since the 6th century.

Built by Emperor Justinian, with a little help from thousands of slaves, it was designed to supply water to the palaces and growing city. Up close, you can see elaborate carvings, including mysterious Medusa heads that prop up two of the pillars.

Meanwhile the busy Grand Bazaar, one of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world, is just a 15-minute (hilly) walk away. We opted for the tram in the heat. Inside it’s a maze of streets selling everything from Turkish rugs and spices to not-quite designer ­handbags and football shirts.

Another short tram ride – a bargain at 20 lira or just under 40p – takes you to Topkapi Palace, thought to be one of the oldest surviving palaces in the world. Dating back to 1465, it’s an absolute treasure trove of Ottoman artworks and textiles, Islamic calligraphy and colourful mosaics. Visit the attached museum to learn more about the history of the sultans who once lived within its gold-trimmed walls.

Stay at the Four Seasons Sultanahmet and you’ll get a taste of the royal life yourself.

Book the holiday

• Pegasus offers return flights to Istanbul from Birmingham, Bristol, Edinburgh, Manchester and Stansted starting at £118 return in 2025. flypgs.com
• Rooms at the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul At Sultanahmet start at £587 a night in 2025. fourseasons.com/istanbul
• More info at goturkiye.com