Food Review: SoBo 20 At Marine Drive Serves Bold Franco-American Food With Classic Cocktails And Art Deco Vibes

It was a walk at Marine Drive that triggered the idea in Panchali’s mind and SoBo 20 happened. She realized that in the cluster of Art Deco buildings on the road, there’s not one bar or restaurant that pays tribute to them. Therefore, when Atelier House Hospitality was approached by The Intercontinental at Marine Drive to create a space for the South Bombay crowd, Panchali Mahendra instantly knew what she was offering.

SoBo 20 is a chic place that reminds one of Mumbai of 90s and all that’s jazz! It is the first place in the city that celebrates the Franco-American style of cooking with cocktails that match the razzmatazz.

Charred Cabbage Ettouffe

Mixologist Supradeep and Chef Sudip came on board to create an eclectic menu. “My vision was clear — get the classics back,” Supradeep shared. He has brought back the classics, but in a different way! He has mix ’n’ matched classics to create a new cocktail. Brass n Bitters, for example, is a cross breed of Boulevardier and Whiskey Sour. Bourbon, Campari, sweet vermouth, prune shrub and sweet ’n’ sour elements complete this mix. The presentation is in a classic, European red crystal glass. What starts with slightly sour, orangy notes goes on to give a mild bitter palate and finishes buttery smooth. “This is for people who love complex tastes,” Supradeep admits.

Skewers Salmon Carpaccio

Before The Ice Melts section, bar bites for the ignorant, has two interesting items. Sobo Bread and Gamba. The bread is made from dough fermented for 48 hours. Hydration is monitored for Mumbai weather and that gives a delicious focaccia. Gamba is seafood lover’s paradise. Three types of prawns presented on dried and fried layers of chicken skin that’s generously brushed with okra thecha (okra and green chilli pickle); this is a different level of complexities that Chef Sudip conquers. Pickled prawns, 30/40 prawns marinated in creole spices, topped with dry prawns. Medley of flavours and texture. The dry prawns give the Umami with flavour ’n’ texture.

Sidecar Smoke

B&P Skewers from the Small Plates is the next on the table. Buff and pork slices marinated in mustard, salsa verde and grilled to perfection. Served with cirano chilli mousse, and chives, the mousse ’n’ chives are good accompanists to the meat that's braised with salt and olive oil. Salmon Carpaccio that follows is a classic with sprinkled nuts that come as a surprise and give a nice crunch. This goes well with Limenchillo Sparkle — limoncello, triple Sec, sparkling wine — that’s crisp and fresh on your palate.

Gambas Brass & Bitters

Abhirath Singh, their marketing head, recommends the Verte Salad. According to Abhirath this is their take on picante. Crisp, crunchy with green vegetables, fruit, candied walnuts, pea shoots, pine nuts and spinach ‘n’ citrus jelly. Like most dishes that come from Sudeep’s kitchen, this is also a textures galore. The jelly enhances the taste and does make it a little ‘picantish’. Limencilo Sparkle goes well with this as well.

While I wait for the next dish, I am offered another signature cocktail recommended by Abhirath and Supradeep — The Night Cap. It is a mix of two almost forgotten classics — Blood&Sand and Alexander NO.1. The first one gets its name from the 1922 bullfighting drama starring Rudolph Valentino and is a mix of blood orange juice, sweet vermouth, cherry liqueur and scotch. The second one has gin, crème de cacao and cream, traditionally, but these days some substitute gin with cognac. Supradeep has a deconstructed mix where he presents a milk-washed Blood&Sand in a martini glass along with the Alexander No.1 in a longish shot glass. You are advised to take big sip from shot glass and wash it with another one from martini glass. And trust me the impact is amazing. Your palate is treated to a burst of flavours.

Grilled Asparagus Fried Beignet with Caviar

This is followed by delectable Creole-spiced Lamb Chops. Marinated in the herb forward creole spices, the chops are perfectly grilled. Served with jus, artichokes, and greens meat lovers shouldn’t miss this. And the vegetarians should try Charred Cabbage Etouffee which is a cajun spice delight served with lemon butter sauce and brown onion pilaf.

Burrata Ice Cream

In desserts, Sobo Chocolate Pate, that’s served straight out of cooking dish on to your plate, nearly melts in your mouth. 70% Dark Valrhona Chocolate dressed with Bourbon! Nearly orgasmic. The fried ginger brûlée beignets topped with sweet caviar are as French as they can be. Brulee spurts out in the first bite merging the textures on the palate.

Average cost for two: ₹5000 (including alcohol)

Where: Ground Floor, InterContinental Hotel, 135, Marine Dr, Churchgate, Mumbai